Specialty Auto & RV Sales

Information may not be reliable

We are located in the scenic Hocking Hills Region serving both Columbus and Lancaster Ohio
An Ohio RV Dealer, we specialize in all types of Recreational Vehicles from Folding Trailers to Travel Trailers, Pop-Up Tent Campers, Expandables (Hybrids), Toy Haulers to Fifth Wheels, and even Class C Motor Homes. Our goal is to provide an environment that allows our customers to choose the right RV not only the first time but for many times in the years to come. Building relationships with our customers is important to us, thus making it the cornerstone of our business.
Aliner, Brookstone, Cherokee, Coachmen, Forest River, Freelander, Grey Wolf, Palomino, Rockwood, Sabre, Sierra, Wolf Pack, and Wolf Pup are just a few of the quality lines that we carry at our Ohio RV Dealer sites.
We have an excellent RV Service Department that can handle almost any repair that your coach might require.
Our RV Parts Department carries a great selection of parts and supplies for all of your camping needs.
Specialty's RV Rental Department offers current model year pop-up tent campers, expandables, travel trailers, and motor homes. "Try It Before You Buy It" is our exclusive program which returns your base rental price towards the price of a new RV.
We have the lowest prices around - shop and compare. With our locations in Lancaster, we invite you to stop by and give us the opportunity to earn your business.

As a Technical Advisor at this web site, I am frequently asked questions relating to the weight of RVs, towing capacity of trucks, and other questions relating to the weight and loading of RVs, trucks and trailers. In response to these many questions I find I am sharing the same information and advice with one RV'er at a time. The similarity of the questions has prompted me to write this article so that I can share my education and experience with a wider audience.
I am a staunch advocate of SAFETY in the RV community. With over two-million safe miles under my belt (well o.k., I'm not an expert on anatomy) I must be doing something right. Also, with nearly ten years experience as a volunteer firefighter, I have picked through the consequences when things go terribly wrong. Because the members of the RV community come from such diverse backgrounds no one can reasonable expect everyone to be "all knowing" in all aspects of our lifestyle. One of the wonderful things about RV'ers though, is that we love to share expertise in areas with which we are familiar. In that way we can all benefit; we can all be SAFE, and that is my intent with this article. By making informed purchasing decisions, and putting SAFETY first, we have the power to change the industry. If we don't buy junk or mismatched units, manufacturers will stop making those units that do not sell. That is the way we can ensure that SAFETY is improved and we get the products we want and need, rather than what some corporate entity thinks they can make money with. PMG.
A critical safety issue all RV'ers need to be become more informed about is "Weights & Balance". But, just what is meant by "Weights and Balance"? Why is this term becoming of more interest to RV'ers? The answers are fundamental; Saving time and money, and safety! Saving you time and money, and ensuring your safety. Pretty solid reasons for most of us to realize the importance of Weights and Balance, not as a fad, but for survival.
"Weights & Balance" pertains to the weight of an object with all of it's component parts, and the distribution of that weight. Although weight and balance applies to many fields, I will limit the discussion to RVs. Building on the fundamental definition the discussion will include matters such as Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCWR), Axle Weights, Axle Weight Rating (AWR) and more.
Proper loading of, and weight distribution in, your rig can prevent premature tire failure, suspension problems, broken axles, burned-up transmissions or differentials, and other breakdowns. In addition to the cost of repair parts and labor, there could be expensive unscheduled stays in hotel/motel rooms, and the associated meals, towing, etc. Of course, the worst case scenario would be a wreck resulting from a blowout, or perhaps loss of control.
There is a difference between "load" (actual weight applied) and "load rating" (maximum engineered design load limit). Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is determined by the manufacturer in the design of the unit. GVWR cannot be changed; that is to say, the addition of heavier components does not change the legal GVWR of your vehicle. Any load exceeding these manufacturer's rating values is both unsafe and illegal; and perhaps immoral, for in doing so you consciously put other people at risk of life and limb.
For a long time there has been extensive discussion, even heated debate, concerning the Weight Rating tags affixed to Recreational Vehicles by the manufacturer. The industry is being responsive to consumer demands for accuracy, but the consumer and the manufacturers still must reach understanding of what the weight rating terms are describing. The Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) requires all member manufacturers to properly label each RV that leaves the factory. However, this is voluntary compliance and not all manufacturers are association members. There are many RV enthusiasts that don't have either the knowledge or the training to interpret weight ratings. Nor should they have to if they could depend on the salesperson to candidly represent the product. That salesperson should be ready to inform a customer if they are making a bad choice. The discussion of the RV load matching the chassis' or tow vehicle's capacity needs to take place during the sales process. We, the consumer, need to be responsible too, and not be impulsive or unrealistic in our expectations or demands. We must educate ourselves about what all the numbers on the nameplate mean. If your intended purchase is too heavy for your tow vehicle or chassis you will be faced with continued frustration, frequent major (read that as expensive) repairs, and in general a frustrating and expensive long term proposition, instead of the fun and relaxation that the RV Lifestyle should be. The following terms do not have consistent usage in the RV marketplace. Have a discussion with the salesperson to understand exactly how they are using these terms.
Dry Weight is the empty weight of the vehicle or trailer. Dry weight may or may not include the weight of appliances, slide outs, etc.
Wet Weight is the weight of the vehicle with fuel, oil, and coolant onboard. Wet weight should, but may not, include the weight of the LPG (propane or butane) in the tanks, and fresh water. (Water weight is 8.34 lbs./U.S. Gallon so a 100 Gallons weighs 834 lb..)

Curb weight, or Net Weight should be the weight of the unit as it is sitting on the lot, without the personal load you will be adding.
Payload Capacity is the difference between the actual weight and the GVWR of the vehicle or trailer. Options and accessories may add weight that is taken from the payload capacity, leaving you with less margin than you think you have. Ask the dealer to provide proof of the units weight before you finalize the sale. Then do the math and calculate what the remaining payload capacity really is.

Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is another design capacity of a towing vehicle. It means the maximum weight rating of a towing vehicle and a towed unit in combination. GCWR takes into consideration such things as the drive train capacity (i.e. engine, transmission, drive shaft and differential), gearing, braking capacity, suspension, and axle loading. When integrating a tow vehicle with a trailer, either a fiver or travel trailer, add the GVWR of the trailer with the GVWR of the tow vehicle. If they add up to more than the GCWR of the tow vehicle it a bad match. The only solution is to pick a lighter trailer or a bigger tow vehicle. The same applies to a self contained unit and a towed unit, either four wheels down or on a dolly. Each of the big three pickup truck manufacturers (Chevrolet, Dodge and Ford) state in their literature a "Trailer Towing Capacity" as well as an alternate method for determining maximum allowable trailer weight. The published towing capacity is maximum allowable trailer GVWR, but usually requires extra optional features - called a towing package, and other options such as a particular engine or rear axle ratio.
In addition, State Laws require that any towed vehicle exceeding a specified weight, usually about 1,000 to 1,500 lb.., must have it's own braking system. The alternate method for determining allowable trailer weight requires that you know the loaded weight of the tow vehicle and the loaded weight of the trailer (something we don't know when we are on the dealer's lot). The sum of these loaded weights must not exceed the tow vehicles GCWR. If you use the alternate method for computing allowable trailer weight, you risk not being able to load the tow vehicle more than the weight you used when you calculated the allowable trailer weight. There are also limits placed on the tongue or "hitch weight" when towing a travel trailer. Plan on 12% of the trailer's GVWR as hitch weight; actual hitch weight when connected should fall between 9% and 12% of the trailer's loaded weight. Fifth-wheel pin weight comes out of the trucks payload capacity, and you should plan on 18% of the fiver's GVWR. With the fiver hitched-up the pin weight should be between 15% and 18% of the trailer's loaded weight. No combination should ever exceed the tow vehicle's Gross Axle Weight Ratings, front or rear.
All RVs have wheels, tires and axles in one form or another. Tires have ratings for weight load, inflation, temperature, speed, rim width, rim spacing for dual wheels, etc.. Axles have weight ratings (some light ones even have speed ratings). The tires on a particular axle need to be inflated to the pressure specified for that weight load by the tire manufacturer. Proper inflation extends tread life, prevents tire overheating, and improves fuel economy by reducing rolling resistance. Understand that all tires on a vehicle may not need the same inflation pressure, but all tires on the same axle do. The tires on the front axle can require a different pressure than the rear axle, which can be a different pressure than the trailer tires. The key point is that each tire needs to be inflated to the correct pressure for the axle load it is supporting. Tire manufacturers publish ratings for their tires; ask your tire manufacturer's dealer for a copy of the table of "Inflation Pressures Vs Weight Ratings" that apply to each tire size and model on your rig. Check inflation pressure when the tire is cold; that is, before it is driven more than a mile; not less than three hours after you have stopped driving; and, not after the tire has been exposed to direct sunlight long enough to cause a temperature rise inside the tire. Double check the accuracy of your tire gauge every six months. Most tire dealer's shops have a "Master" tire gauge you can check your gauge against. I favor the use of a digital gauge that can be calibrated to atmospheric pressure before each use, but even these should be verified periodically.

You have probably already seen articles relating to weighing your rig; front-to-back and also side-to-side. This is an important task to take care of when you first acquire and load your RV, whenever you change equipment that could affect the vehicle's weight (RV and/or Tow Vehicle), and periodically thereafter - the "period" depends on how much you travel. If necessary, reconfigure your rig, or reload it, and then have it weighed again. You may have to repeat the process until you get the weights within required limits and distributed correctly. It is surprising how much weight distribution changes just through usage. Things get stowed in different places; new things are acquired as you travel, some things are used up or taken out, etc. "Weights and Balance" is dynamic; that is, it changes.

Front-to-back distribution of a two axle, six-wheel "straight rig", that is a non-towing vehicle, when loaded, should be 30% on the front axle and 70% on the rear axle. For a towing vehicle of two axle, six-wheel configuration pulling a 5th wheeler as a semi-trailer, the ideal distribution would be 20% GCW on the front axle, 40% GVW on the rear axle, and the remaining 40% GCW on the trailer axles, however, practical distribution is 15% on the front axle, 31% on the rear axle, and the remaining 54% GCW equally divided on the trailer axles. A rig that is not relatively equal side-to-side will not ride or handle well. If there is an out of balance condition in either direction (absent a broken suspension component or flat tire) it is due to improper load distribution. Side-to-side imbalance could be either the result of incorrect loading or poor manufacture. Strong evidence why it is best to weigh before you buy.

Most travel trailers should use a load leveling (weight distribution) hitch. Before hooking up measure the distance from some convenient reference point on the tow vehicles front and rear bumpers to the ground. Then connect the trailer and start loading the hitch torsion bars one chain-link at a time, keeping the chains equal on each side. As the load on the torsion bars is increased, the rear of the tow vehicle comes up and the front goes down. When the front and rear bumpers are as close to the reference measurement as you can get (and it should be within a half-inch at the front bumper) the hitch is tensioned correctly.

A self-contained unit's wheelbase to length ratio can be used to judge how well a vehicle will ride and handle. A short wheelbase makes for easier maneuvering while a longer wheelbase increases high speed stability and ride comfort. However, when comparing Length Overall (LOA) to wheel base length, a long body on a short wheel base is not desirable.. Dividing the wheel base (Inches) by the vehicles length (Inches) it is favorable to have a ratio of 0.54 (54%) or more. Long haul busses, such as Greyhound buses, have a 0.66 ratio for both comfort and SAFETY. Yet another issue is the center of gravity. The higher the CG the less stable the vehicle will be in turns and curves, or in cross winds. Calculation of the CG is complex; so ask the manufacturer to provide this important data.

No matter how many times you may have gotten away with improper vehicle integration or overloading in the past, or what you may have seen others doing, to be SAFE you need to respect the engineering design limits. These ratings are based on a lot more than what I can cover in this article, but the bottom line is expressed as the weight ratings published by the manufacturers. Be safe - live by them.

by Jason Kay
You've been considering the purchase of an RV, but now, with gas prices so high, maybe you're re-considering. While you want to evaluate any vehicle purchase, here are a few things you may not have thought about Recreational Vehicles.

First, there is an RV for any spending level. You can find tent trailers for a few hundred to a few thousand dollars, depending on whether you want new or used, and the size and options included. And you can find mega-RVs that cost more than some houses. Find an RV that meets your requirements for comfort and roominess. Most models come in several trim levels, so if you're looking for a new RV, you can weigh the benefits of the various options against the costs. But remember that there are many used RVs out there that are very well cared for, and you may be able to find one that's just a few years old and save yourself some money.
But what kinds of RVs are there to choose from? In the broadest sense, there are tow-behinds and fifth-wheels, which have no motor as part of the RV, and motorhomes, which have the motor as an integral part.
Tow-behinds can include tent trailers, which are an excellent way to try out RVing. They're very reasonably priced and lightweight. You can find a tent trailer light enough to tow behind almost any vehicle. Tent trailers set up (and down) in a matter of minutes, and the "tent" part of it is watertight these days, so there's no more worrying about water coming through to drip on your forehead.
Tow-behinds can also include teardrop trailers (think "I love Lucy"), standard recreational trailers, and also the newer "toy hauler" trailers, with which you can bring along everything, including the kitchen sink. Teardrop trailers are not as lightweight as a tent trailer, but they are pretty light, mostly because they aren't all that large. The interior is typically reserved for sleeping, with the kitchen facilities on a fold-down tail in the rear.
Standard trailers come in a huge variety of lengths, from twelve feet or so to well over thirty feet. You can find models with just the basics to ones with options you hadn't even imagined-and, of course, prices to match. The "toy hauler" models are very similar, but many of the interior features like beds and sofas fold or otherwise stow away so that your ATVs or motorcycles can come along for the ride. The floors typically have recessed D-rings for strapping your toys down.
The final type of tow-behind is a fifth-wheel trailer. These hook into an adapter in the bed of your truck, rather than on a ball on the bumper. This can make the overall length a little shorter, although the front of the trailer, the part that rides over the truck bed, isn't as tall as the rest of the trailer. One nice thing about fifth-wheels is that they turn and corner in a shorter radius than standard tow-behinds.
Then there are the motorized RVs, typically called motorhomes or motorcoaches. The nice thing about these is that, when you pull over to camp, there's no getting out or setting up. You just unbuckle your seatbelt and you're ready to go. However, with a tow-behind you're not devoted to your engine-you can get a new car or truck and still keep your trailer. With a motorhome it's all or nothing. Some people tow a small car behind the motorcoach so they can get to the grocery store without taking the RV.
Of course, since the engine is included, a motorcoach is typically more expensive than a trailer or fifth-wheel. But don't forget to consider the cost of the tow vehicle into your calculations.
After deciding what type of RV you want and the price you're willing to pay, it's time to start looking! Don't discount an RV that's a few years old. Remember, few RVs are used on an ongoing basis. The vast majority get taken out only a few weeks or months of the year.
Many banks offer financing for RVs-check with yours first. Sometimes with an attached checking or savings account, they'll lower the interest rate a bit. Belong to a credit union? Some of them offer RV financing as well, often at better rates than the banks or savings and loans. You may find a special financing deal on a model offered through the dealer.
With any type of financing through any source, be sure to read, read, read that contract. Question anything you don't understand. Make sure the interest rate, term, payment amount, and any other important aspects of the loan are clearly outlined on the note you'll sign. Get a copy of the contract right there, when you sign. You'll protect yourself from later hocus-pocus by anyone else.
Call several places and get firm quotes on rate and terms. If you'd prefer to deal with Lender A, but Lender B is a quarter-percent lower with the same terms, call up Lender A and let them know. You'd be surprised how often Lender A will meet or beat Lender B's offer in order to get your business.
An RV offers you flexibility in your travel plans, and the comfort of being able to stay in familiar surroundings. Your family can spend time together, and you're not worried about creepy hotel rooms or third-world food. You'll create memories that will last forever, and family ties that will bind.
So get out there, explore the world of RVing. You'll be glad you did!

Motor homes usually have a driver, a passenger, maybe a few kids and at least one dog. It's a prerequisite that to own a motor home you need at least one dog. Don't be surprised when you see RV dealers matching a breed to a particular model in the future.
Taking a RV trip with your pooch should and will be pleasant if you:

Keep your dog safe; put his leash on before you open the door. Dogs are excited as soon as their home on the road stops and they want out! But not every place you stop will be safe; on coming traffic, glass on the side of the road, and other dogs near by could cause your dog to run on to the road.
Carry a health certificate issued by our veterinarian that clearly identifies the dog and certifies that the dog have been vaccinated against rabies during the preceding 36-month period. This is a must if you plan to travel from the United States to Canada. Different Canadian provinces may have different requirements. Be sure to contact the government of the provinces you plan to visit. It is rare to need the health certificate when traveling in the 48 states but if there is an incident both the certificate and the rabies vaccination certificate could help a bunch.
Respect all the rules of campsites and parks. That can mean a special Poop Park or a Dog Run Area and leash rules. You don't want to be asked to move on if your dog misbehaves or is running amuck. Dogs in a new strange place will follow their nose so keep that leash on so he will not get lost. And be prepared to pay extra for your pooch. Some camps and parks have a "dog fee".
Always carry poop bags (zip lock sandwich plastic bags for smaller breeds and larger plastic bags for bigger breeds). The trick, using the zip lock bags, is to turn the bag inside out, pick up the poop, turning the bag right side again and zip the contents (and smell) closed. Always try to locate the nearest dumpster or trash can instead of bringing it back into your motor home.
D-rings are great! Hook it on his leash and then hook the D-ring to your belt loop. You'll have both hands free. When in camp, tie a long rope to a boulder, picnic table, tree or the bumper of the motor home and tie the other end to the hand rail just outside the RV door. Next time your pooch needs to go out, get his leash, clamp on the D-ring and hook it on the rope and out he goes like a little paratrooper. D-rings make it easy to tie up the dog when you go into a store or shop. Just loop the leash around any post or tree and use the D-ring to secure the dog; this prevents those knots that seem to get tighter by the minute as your dog pulls on the leash.
When you go on a tour or shopping and have to leave your pooch in the RV make sure you leave the vents open, have fresh water out, and a few puddle pads on the floor just in case there is an accident. Open windows can become an escape route; right through the screen and a long way down to the ground, so only leave the windows open an inch.
The inside of a motor home is usually small and dogs do not get out as much as if they were at home. Brush your dog outside to remove dander, and loose fur, it's much easier to let the wind take it away than to clog up your vacuum.

Give your dog a special place, like a dog carrier or a dog pad or bed this provides him with a secure and comfortable place when he is feeling scared or tired.
If your dog gets nervous or anxious while traveling try Dramine and St. John's Worth. Ask your vet for the amounts to be given based on your poochs body weight.

Dogs enrich our lives in everyway and they deserve a road trip too. Besides, they're a lot easier than kids and dogs don't keep saying over and over "Are we there yet?" or "wheres McDonald's?" The only draw back, dogs cant use the bathroom so they compel us to stop and smell the roses every so often.

Now Is a Great Time to Buy
Fuel costs have come down. There are great deals available on exciting new models. It's a buyer's market and a great time to invest in an RV for years of vacation savings. Now is the time to see your RV dealer!
In the wake of the mortgage lending crisis of 2008, consumer financing remains available for qualified borrowers looking to purchase a vehicle to fit their needs at a price to fit their budget. Most dealers offer in-house financing through one or more national lenders or with local banks, finance companies and credit unions. Their in-depth knowledge will make the process go that much smoother.
The median term for new RV loans is just over 18 years for new RVs and about 17.5 years for used RVs, according to the 2008 Survey of Lenders' Experiences, an annual nationwide survey conducted by RVIA of financial institutions concerning their RV lending portfolios.

You May Qualify for Tax Deduction
For the vast majority of RV buyers, the interest on their loan is deductible as second home mortgage interest. To qualify, owners must not already have a second home mortgage. Also, the RV must be used as security for the loan and provide basic living accommodations such as sleeping area, bathroom and cooking facilities. Virtually all RV types motorhomes, travel trailers, truck campers and even most folding camping trailers are equipped with these accommodations and eligible for the tax savings benefits.

New Sales Tax Deductions Take Effect
In early 2009, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 created changes in federal income tax laws that potentially can benefit qualified RV buyers. The new tax deduction is available to taxpayers regardless of whether or not they itemize deductions on their returns. Those who buy motorhomes between February 17 and December 31, 2009 can deduct the state and local sales and excise taxes paid on the first $49,500 of the vehicle purchase price on their federal income tax, thereby lowering their overall taxable income. Always check with a qualified tax advisor to see if you are eligible for these deductions
A Great Investment in Family Fun
Studies show that even factoring in the cost of RV ownership and fuel, families can save 27-61% on vacation costs by traveling by RV, so by investing in an RV today, your family can enjoy many years of quality vacation time together all while saving money generally spent airfare, hotels and restaurant meals. And the on-the-road adventures create priceless memories that will last a lifetime.

The bottom line is that if you are thinking of buying an RV, you should check financing options to maximize your purchase enjoyment. You'll be on the road enjoying your new RV before you know it!

RVing is nothing if not kid-friendly. Think of all the "extras" sported by recreation vehicles. Comfortable beds. Fully-stocked, on-board snack center. Your children's favorite toys, games, books and videos - all within an arm's reach. A clean bathroom that never has a line, no matter how far to the nearest rest stop. And because of these comforts you have, there are certain things you'll be able to do without -- like the sound of "Are we there yet?," for instance.
And that's all before the motor even stops. The nation's 16,000 campgrounds and resorts catering to RV travelers feel like small, friendly towns. Your children will find plenty of other children eager to make friends. And in a safe environment, youll feel comfortable letting them explore and they'll find amenities and activities galore:

RVing can bring your family together by taking them far away. Whether your passion is camping, mountain biking, or touring some of history's great landmarks, RVing is a wonderfully fun, surprisingly affordable way to get there more often.
According to a recent RVIA survey, one of the activities that children enjoy most while on an RV vacation is gathering with their families around a campfire, whether it's to make s'mores, roast marshmallows or tell stories. Survey results also suggest that children who take RV trips with their families plan to continue the tradition of RV travel when they get older. In fact, nearly 100% of the kids who responded to the survey intend to go RVing with their own children when they become adults.